Lawn Maintenance Checklist

Lawn Maintenance Checklist: Essential Guide for Healthy & Green Lawns

Herbicides were banned in Ontario in 2009, and homeowners have been seeking effective and natural means to maintain their lawns in fine condition. The good thing is that you can have a green, healthy, and weed-free lawn with care and the appropriate timing. This checklist provides comprehensive lawn care ideas that run through all seasons.

1: Aerating and Thatch Control

Your lawn needs to breathe, and to achieve that, it is aerated. Aerating should be done during spring and fall before top-dressing or fertilizing. Aeration softens compact soil and gives water time to soak into the soil. Aerating provides space to allow air, water and nutrients to move to the root zone. Stronger roots develop when grass grows deeper, and stronger grass tolerates stress.

Aeration also shatters thatch. Thatch is a dead stem and root layer between the grass and soil. A healthy lawn carries about one centimetre of thatch. When it reaches a level of more than 2.5 centimetres, it blocks water and nutrients from permeating to the roots. Thatch can also offer insect and disease hiding places. It can be de-thatched using a machine or by hiring a person to do it.

2: Enhance Soil Health

Good grasses are rooted in good soil. Grass is reputed to grow well in wet, fertile, well-drained soil. Both Sandy and Clay soil need additional organic matter to improve texture. They can be humus, compost and peat moss. The top grass is rooted deep, and therefore, 10 centimetres of soil depth is the best. Extra soil allows deeper roots and greener turf. Additional soil promotes deeper roots and a more lush turf.

You can get a test of your soil to determine the levels of phosphorus, potassium, lime, and pH level. The best pH will be between 6.0 and 7.0. Lime and other materials help you change the soil pH. Fertilize your lawn once or twice a year in spring or fall with a surface spreading of good soil. Loam, compost and peat moss should be used to add nutrients and structure. You may mix top-dressing with overseeding for maximum benefit.

3: Overseeding

The process of overseeding gives your lawn a new life. It concentrates fine areas, plants out better grass species, and increases drought, insect, and disease resistance. Early fall is the best time for overseeding when it is cool and wet. Overseeding can also be done during spring when winter damage is evident.

Long-term success combines drought-tolerant grass blends. A good choice is red fescue as it is shade-tolerant, loves the sun, and is a natural spreader. Perennial ryegrass is also a good contender. It is fast-growing, sun and shade, and retains its colour throughout the hot summer season. Most ryegrasses have natural endophytes that render them immune to common pests in lawns.

4: Mowing

Mowing determines the mood and the health of the lawn. You should always mow high, 6 to 8 centimetres. Longer grass absorbs the soil, prevents weeds and keeps roots cooler. If you have to mow, be sure never to cut off more than one-third of the blade length at once.

Leave clippings on the lawn. They decompose readily and recycle nitrogen to the soil. This easy habit naturally feeds your lawn at no additional cost.

5: Fertilizing

Fertilizer nourishes your grass and makes it resilient to weeds and stress. Use slow-release fertilizer and heed instructions closely. Use a spreader to apply it evenly. Organic fertilizers are best for healthy soil and sustained lawn care.

Durable lawns generally don't require additional phosphorus since their root systems have access to what is already present in the ground. The primary nutrient that needs to be supplemented annually is nitrogen. Potassium remains constant in soil, but it is necessary for developing roots.

The ideal time for fertilizing is late fall. Then, the grass stops growing above the ground, but roots remain active. Fall feeding promotes root growth and provides you with an early green-up during spring. Fertilizing once more in late May or early June promotes summer growth. You can also use corn gluten meal at that time to suppress crabgrass.

6: Weed and Insect Control

A strong lawn resists weeds and insects naturally. Walk your lawn often and pull broadleaf weeds by hand before they flower. Mow regularly to prevent annual weeds from seeding. For grassy weeds like crabgrass, apply a pre-emergent product in spring. Corn gluten meal can help reduce germination.

Overseeding with perennial ryegrass repels pests like chinch bugs, billbugs, and sod webworms. Insects dislike ryegrass due to its endophytic properties. If you notice grub damage, treat the soil with nematodes. Nematodes kill grubs but not your lawn or the environment.

7: Drainage And Irrigation

A well-established lawn can survive short periods of dryness. In extended droughts, your lawn might go dormant, its colour changing to brown but not perishing. Grass can last for as much as six weeks in dormancy. Let it rest except when it gives signs of distress. 

If you must water, do it deeply and less frequently. Use approximately 2.5 centimetres of water every week. Always water before 10 a.m. early in the morning to prevent evaporation.

Stop fertilizing and mowing when your lawn is dormant. Keep traffic away from the grass to prevent damage. If you water, be sure to check local watering restrictions and plan accordingly.

Proper drainage is key to keeping your lawn healthy and free from waterlogging. Good drainage prevents root rot, controls excess moisture, and keeps grass growth even. A well-drained lawn is easier to maintain year-round.